My favourite Herbs
Anne Ager sniffs out her favourite leafy green friends, and teaches us how to pluck, store and combine them to cook up a veritable feast of fresh herbal delights

Some of my best travelling companions have been the herbs that I bring home with me! Long before I moved to the Côte d’Azur, I always used to hoard food on my return trips from France, a little bit like a squirrel, frequently causing noses on the plane to twitch because of the very ripe piece of Chaumes or Roquefort nestling in my hand luggage. Not to mention the bag of large, spiky crevettes, two bushy basil plants, and a healthy chunk of rather pungent saucisson!

Now that I am based in France, the only food that I stow away when going back to the UK is what I take for family and friends. However, when I travel to other foreign destinations, further afield, I still fly back with clusters of coriander from Morocco or Tunisia, rigani (oregano) and thymari (thyme) from Greece and Cyprus, and the irresistible purple basil from Italy or Spain. And I have now mastered the art of keeping them fresh during the flight. Nestle the stems in a well-dampened flannel, and over-wrap your chosen herbs in a plastic bag (carrier bag or laundry bag), punctured with a few extra holes.

The word herb comes from the Latin herba, meaning grass or herbage: a non-woody plant. All of these plants have a veritable history, and their cultivation goes back to some of the earliest civilisations. The names of many of them come from the medieval period, when monasteries around Europe were centres of agriculture, each having its own herb or physic garden.

Most herbs have always had a dual purpose – as an essential flavouring ingredient in the kitchen, and for their medicinal properties in the pharmacy and aromatherapy laboratory. In fact, centuries before the birth of Christ,
it was suggested that medicine was a by-product of cooking! And many people would now say that some of the poorer quality drinks and foods taste no better than medicine! I would certainly agree when it comes to some of the tissanes, or herbal teas. An exception to this rule is what comes out of a bottle in the form of an aperitif or digestif: one of the herb-based bitters, vermouths or liqueurs.

Green Chartreuse, from France, Cuarenta y Tres, from Spain, and Campari from Italy, all contain a cocktail of herbs in their highly secret recipes.

BASIL has to be one of my all-time favourites, followed hotly by coriander. I love its brilliant green colour, and unmistakable pungency, which are so evocative of everything that one associates with sunshine flavours. Although the herb originated in India, it is used widely in Spain, France, Italy, Greece and the Canary Islands, perhaps because of its great affinity with tomatoes. Basil and tomatoes (especially the really plump, juicy guys) are the very best of culinary friends. Basil is the principal ingredient in both the traditional Genoese sauce and Pesto, and it is the crowning glory for the classic Italian salad, insalata di pomodori al basilico. When in Italy and Spain, keep an eye open for the purple variety of basil. Not quite so strident in flavour, the leaves are superb for garnishing antipasto or tapas.

Basil makes a superb garnish for all pasta dishes including fettucine

TARRAGON comes in two different varieties: French tarragon, which is referred to as the true tarragon, and Russian tarragon, which is much coarser and grows to over one metre in height. When the herb came to Europe in the Middle Ages, the French christened it estragon, meaning little dragon, due to its pointed, tongue-shaped leaves. (From this was derived the English, tarragon.) The flavour of tarragon is delicate and aromatically sweet, with a slightly hidden tang of anise. It has long been one of the most revered herbs in the French kitchen, but is also cultivated throughout the rest of Europe and in North America. Tarragon is one of the very best herbs to use with chicken, perhaps tucked between the skin and flesh of the bird prior to cooking, or made into a hollandaise-style sauce to serve with poached chicken. In Seville, they make a deliciously simple salad, ensalada Sevillana – curly endive is tossed with small pitted Spanish green olives
and a tarragon dressing.

Besugo marinera – Spanish dish of red snapper fillet cooked with almonds, onion and tarragon

The use of herbs in the kitchen is closely linked to culinary traditions, and every cuisine around the world has its own most frequently used herbs. Here, I have selected my own personal favourites; the ones that I can really not do without. Some come from mainland Europe, some are particularly indigenous to Mediterranean regions, and others emanate from warmer climates further afield, such as the West Indies and South America. The herbs that are worth bringing back are those that are either difficult to grow at home (secreting a box of parsley or mint in the overhead locker really isn’t worth it!), or those that are of exceptional regional quality. Many of them owe much of their characteristic flavour to the soil of the region, and the long hours of sunshine in which they bask. I really believe that herbs should come in big generous bunches; not a few leaves on a polystyrene tray, as I had been used to for so long in London, apart from the ones that I grew myself. And, fortunately, the Brits are now becoming a more herb-educated nation.

THYME (thymari) and OREGANO
(rigani) are two of the mainstay herbs of mainland Greece and the Greek Islands. In spring, they are used fresh, and in the summer months they are collected from the mountains and hillsides and dried in the summer sun, for use later in the year. Thyme and oregano are quite hardy herbs, with strong characteristic flavours, and they stand up well in meat and game dishes, such as soutzoukakia smyrnieika (rissoles of minced beef in a tomato and herb sauce), and to the lengthy cooking of casseroles and stews. Both herbs are also used in some of the mountain cuisine of Switzerland and Germany, and one such typical dish is berneplatte: a meal-sized dish of assorted simmered meats, with herbs and vegetables.
It’s quite substantial, but exceedingly tasty.

Bruschetta – Italian dish comprising croutes of olive oil-fried bread topped with fried plum tomatoes, garlic, onion, basil and oregano

Kotopoulo me limone – Greek dish of chicken cooked with lemon olives, potato, red onion, coriander and thyme

BERGAMOT is a more unusual herb and well worth keeping an eye open for on your North American travels. (It can be found in the UK, but it is very common in the States.) Of the two varieties, red bergamot is the most popular and widely used. The rough, hairy leaves are often used to make a tisane, known as Oswego tea, named after the Oswego Indians of North America. At the time of the Boston Tea Party, Americans would prefer to drink bergamot tea in protest at the British- imported tea. The edible, orange-scented, scarlet flowers add a unique splash of colour and a citrus tang to a green salad.

You are likely to encounter DILL – my light, feathered friend – wherever you find mouthwatering fish dishes. This fragrant member of the parsley family, with its delicate and subtly piquant flavour, cannot quite be matched by any other herb. Dill not only adds flavour; it also aids digestion. In the really warm parts of southern Europe, it is customary to use dill in most of the lighter fish dishes, where the herb can be found growing wild. The Italian gem, pesce spada alla griglia (grilled swordfish with olive oil, lemon and fresh dill), is a fine example of this fish and dill pairing. And in Bulgaria, they use a lot of dill to make one of the most original cold soups that you could wish to taste: Tarator. It is the most wonderful melange of cucumber, creamy natural yoghurt, walnuts and, of course, fresh dill.

Although CORIANDER is a member of the carrot family, it bears no resemblance in appearance or taste. The feathery green leaves have a distinctive, sweetly aromatic and spicy flavour. This ancient herb is indigenous to many countries and regions, including the Mediterranean, South America and Mexico, Asia and India. It is also one of the most popular herbs in Morocco, Tunisia, Greece and Portugal, and in Mexico it is known as cilantro. One of my “must-haves” when staying in Portugal is Sopa á Alentejana, a punchy coriander and garlic soup, topped with poached eggs. Many of the meat dishes in North Africa are cooked over charcoal, and a marinade of olive oil, lime juice, chopped fresh coriander, and ground cumin is frequently
used to marinate and baste the meat.

Pesce spada alla griglia – Italian dish of swordfish grilled with olive oil, lemon and herbs

If the herbs and soil that you bring back to Britain are brought from another EC country for personal use then there are no restrictions provided they are healthy (ie free from plant pests and disease). If, however, the herbs are coming from a country outside of the EC then the plants would need to be accompanied by a phytosanitary (plant health) certificate. This can be obtained in the country of origin from the Plant Health Authority following an inspection, and essentially states that the plants are free from pest and disease and meet the requirements to enter the EC. For more information on meeting these requirements see the Plant Health Guide for Importers at www.defra.gov.uk

The next time you go through Customs, remember to use the Green Channel!

Anne Ager trained as a chef in London and Paris, and works with some of the world’s leading chefs. She has written more than 20 cookery books and numerous articles for food magazines. Anne continues to work as a food consultant and journalist, as well as running cookery courses in the UK and France, from her home in Antibes. Visit www.anne-ager.com