Red carpet rocks

Since the 1920s, royalty and starlets from Audrey Hepburn and Ava Gardner to Nicole Kidman and Keira Knightly have sparkled in Bulgari. On its 150th anniversary, the brand has never been more on-trend, says Josh Sims

In 1963, during the filming of Cleopatra, Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor (left) a ring. “I introduced her to beer,” he said after working with her, “and she introduced me to Bulgari”. When Eddie Fisher, Taylor’s fourth husband, made his last-ditch attempt to save their marriage, he did it with an emerald necklace from the Italian jeweller. But Taylor wasn’t alone in appreciating the luxurious and distinctive brand. Hundreds of actors have followed suit, from Sophia Loren and Ingrid Bergman, who had theirs bought for them by directors and producers, to Jessica Lange, who wears hers – despite not wearing much else – in King Kong. These days, Bulgari has a reputation for being the catwalk jewellery of choice. Susan Sarandon wore it at the Oscars in the 90s, as did Silence of the Lambs star Anthony Hopkins (a Bulgari-Bulgari watch). And in the 2000s, Keira Knightley and Nicole Kidman enthusiastically showcased their pieces at the Oscars. Bulgari drips with Hollywood glam but is elegantly understated. That’s the reason it has been able to maintain its appeal for 150 years.

The brand’s founder, Sotirio Bulgari, was born in Greece, but at 24 moved to Rome – the city with which he has become synonymous. There he sold his silver designs on the street in front of Rome’s French Academy until a fellow Greek merchant offered him a corner of his shop window in which to display his wares. He then opened his own store. Andy Warhol said it was “like visiting the best exhibition of contemporary art”. Now, of course, Bulgari has shops all over the world.

It was Bulgari that pioneered the idea of an internationally recognised specialist jewellery brand and, 30 years ago this year, was one of the first to move into watches. Its BulgariBulgari model became a classic and in 2000 it bought its own Swiss watch manufacturers.

The company has continued to diversify. In 1993, it launched its first fragrance. Some 15 years later, its distinctive scents are just as heady: last year it relaunched its signature fragrances, Pour Femme, Pour Homme and Pour Homme Extreme, as well as introducing two new women’s perfumes, Voile de Jasmin and the sensual Rose Essentielle. There have also been accessories lines including silk collections, silverware, eyewear and leathergoods. More recently, Bulgari has opened luxury hotels, one in Milan and one in Bali, and there are more planned for Rome, Paris, London and New York.

Despite listing on the Milan Stock Exchange, the company has remained a family concern. It wasn’t until the 1960s, some three decades after Sotirio’s sons Giorgio and Costantino took over, that the company found a signature style in its jewellery, for which it has been coveted ever since: precious colourful stones and jewels, and a trademark style inspired by elements of Greek and Roman classicism, as well as the Italian Renaissance. In 1984, Giorgio’s children, Paolo and Nicola, in turn took over, building on this look. As chairman Paolo Bulgari has put it: “People just can’t live without the aesthetic.”

Bulgari’s appeal lies in its balance between classicism, modernity and innovation – and yet Bulgari’s designs vary significantly. A recent creation,

Elisia, for example, features the brand’s signature coloured gems while referencing its 60s oval designs. After all, “one has to understand the past and use this knowledge as a foundation for the future”, as vice chairman Nicola Bulgari notes. Watches too, an increasingly important part of the business, are classic yet contemporary: the white gold Assioma line, with a rose-cut diamond set in the crown, was inspired by the Bulgari pieces favoured by Ava Gardner and Audrey Hepburn during the 1950s, while men have the Diagono Professional Scuba Chrono, developed in collaboration with underwater archaeologists diving the Swiss lakes.

Often the subject of imitation, Bulgari has managed to stay stylishly ahead of the pack by starting its own trends and revivals. Together with superior design, this lies at the heart of the company’s prestige and longevity across the world. After all, when it comes to jewellery, Elizabeth Taylor knew what she was talking about.

Josh Sims is a fashion journalist based in London

The wishlist...

Clockwise from top: earrings from the Parentesi jewellery collection, Bulgari-Bulgari watch, ring from the Sapphire Flower range, Rettangelo watch

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