Zoned in

Fast destination guides packed with the best insider tips

African odyssey
From the romance and mystery of the Sahara to the superb seafood of Agadir, a holiday in Tunisia, Morocco or The Gambia promises a wealth of unforgettable experiences – plus plenty of sunshine. Read on for the lowdown on the best places to eat, sleep and drink in these dream destinations.

Tunisia

Tunisia is Africa at its most Mediterranean and Arabia at its most relaxed. It’s ringed by 1,400km of coast, much of it white and sandy with spectacular Roman ruins dotted throughout. In the north, there are huge cork forests and rolling mountains, while a dreamy desert undulates across the south. It was the eerie salt lakes and seemingly alien-built architecture in these southern desertscapes that were used as planet Tatooine, the childhood home of Anakin Skywalker, in the Star Wars films.

Where to stay
The lush Sheraton in Hammamet offers elegant bungalow-style accommodation set in lovely gardens. Splash in its pools and bliss out on the private beach.

The hot table
Dining at Dar El-Jeld (tel. +71 560 916) is like eating in a work of art. The restaurant occupies an exquisite, elaborately tiled and painted 18th-century mansion in Tunis’ old city. Refined traditional dishes such as kabkabou (fish with tomato, capers and olives) are complemented by the twanging tones of the resident musician.

Local (and affordable) dining
For location and a good-value lunch, you can’t beat Mahdoui’s (2 rue Jema Zaytounam). It’s in an arched alley next to Tunis’ Grand Mosque, and the simple food hits the spot, with typical dishes including couscous and fried fish.

Shop
Tunisia is ablaze with colourful crafts – tiling, tableware, ceramics, and metalwork. Join the fray and browse, shop and haggle in the souks, the best of which are in Tunis. The maze-like medina (old city) is divided into districts that specialise in different items, from ornate jewellery to handmade, fez-type hats for Tommy Cooper moments.

Chill out
Tunisia’s sublime coastline offers endless opportunities to pad across powder-soft sand and bob around in the turquoise sea. The best spots for sun-worshippers lie along the northern coast, but almost the entire Cap Bon is lined by beaches. Head towards Kélibia at its northeasternmost tip for the most deserted, pearly-white sands.

Get active
For all sorts of splashy fun – from banana boating to water skiing to parasailing – head to Hammamet’s main beach, which runs south from the town centre. Those who prefer a drier adrenaline rush might want to try dune skiing at Hotel El Faouar (tel. +75 460 531) in El-Faouar, deep in the Saharan sands.

Must do
Unleash your inner Lawrence of Arabia and experience the velvet dunes of the Sahara’s great sand sea, the Grand Erg Oriental, on camel back. You can arrange trips from the small, desert town of Douz in the south.

Away from the crowds
Jugurtha’s Table, in central Tunisia, is a flat-topped mountain close to the Algerian border. It’s an extraordinary natural fortress in the middle of nowhere, with ancient steps leading to the summit hacked into the escarpment.

Local tip
Get to know the locals via a louage (shared taxi), a fast, friendly, and convenient way to get from A to B. Fares are equivalent to bus fares and the vehicles leave when full.

Abigail Hole is the main author of the Lonely Planet guide to Tunisia

Agadir

Go to Agadir for two numbers: 10km of sandy beach and at least 300 days of sunshine each year. Around this and on the rubble of a town almost entirely destroyed by earthquake in 1960, a year-round resort has emerged. But it’s not just sun, sand and sea that attracts visitors: there’s also the simple but delicious local cuisine, shopping, camel rides and pampering treatments aplenty.

Where to Stay
The Sofitel Agadir is a Moorish-styled resort hotel on Palm Bay beach, a couple of kilometres from the centre of Agadir town. There is an impressive range of restaurants, plus spa and swimming pool. If you want to be closer to town and have the advantage of an all-inclusive stay, the Riu Tikida Beach has a wide range of facilities, including four swimming pools.

The hot table
Agadir isn’t known for its restaurants but the Scala (tel. +212 (0)48 846 773), set on the beach, is the exception. Eat outside at lunchtime or in the restaurant at night. The cooking is fresh and Mediterranean and the linen crisp and white in this award-winning restaurant.

Local (and affordable) dining
No one can beat the gargottes (stalls) near the port for the freshness of their fish. Restaurant Laayoune (tel. +212 (0)44 474 643) is one of the most reliable here. There is little fuss about the cooking – plain grilled fish and shellfish are best – and no ceremony in the service.

Shop
You’ll find a wide range of Moroccan crafts, from Safi pottery to Marrakech babouches (leather slippers) and exotically shaped lampshades decorated with henna designs. Some of the better quality crafts are available at the fixed-price Ensemble Artisanal (tel. +212 (0)28 843 062).

Chill out
The Sofitel Agadir faces west, which makes it the perfect spot for watching the sun go down over the Atlantic. There’s no shortage of bars to choose from along Sunset Beach and Palm Beach, and many of them have happy hour around dusk. Be sure to sample some of the exotic cocktails.

Get active
The beach is the centre of all activities, including jet skiing and windsurfing. For something less energetic, hop on a camel for a stroll along the golden sands. The best surf opportunities for experts and beginners lie a dozen miles north of town, around Taghazout.

Away from the crowds
The Souss Massa, south of Agadir, is Morocco’s main national park, a wetland of creeks and lagoons, cliffs and dunes. While you might not see wild boar and jackals, you are likely to spot cranes, flamingoes, bald ibises and many other birds.

Local tip
Hammams used to cater for people who didn’t have a shower at home, but you don’t have to be Moroccan to get yourself scrubbed down and massaged. Head for the hotels if you want the luxury version.

Local tip
Drive north along the wild Haha coast between Agadir and Essaouira. The route is surprisingly wild and dotted with small bays, popular with surfers. The most unspoiled beaches are up near Cap Rhir.

Anthony Sattin was voted a key influence on travel writing by Condé Nast Traveller

The Gambia

The Gambia is a must-explore winter-sun destination on the shimmering coastline of West Africa. Stunning, uninterrupted beaches, great food, a huge range of accommodation choices and the ever-present smile of Africa’s friendliest country makes this a place not to be missed.

Where to stay
Set on an idyllic stretch of white, sandy beach, Kotu Beach Hotel is excellent for both relaxing and water sports. With a golf course nearby, this hotel will suit everyone’s tastes. Alternatively, Holiday Beach Club (in Serrekunda) is a small, friendly African-style hotel near Kololi beach catering to independent travellers who want to be central.

The hot table
The Butcher’s Shop (tel. +220 449 5069, info@thebutchersshopgambia.com) is a popular restaurant on Fajara’s main restaurant strip. The deli there is worth a nose for its top-quality organic food and vegetables from the owner’s garden. For cosmopolitan Gambian dining, try the excellent Indian food at The Clay Oven (tel. +220 449 6600, info@theclayoven.gm) where you eat in a lush garden.

Local (and affordable) dining
The Safari Garden Hotel (Fajara, tel. +220 449 5887, geri@gamspirit.com), is a small poolside hotel restaurant that serves creative, international dishes made from local ingredients. If you’re dining in the restaurant, go for a refreshing swim before or after.

Shop
Albert market in central Banjul is a rich and colourful market where visitors are warmly welcomed. Traditional, batik-print cloth is the speciality, and a row of tailors are on hand to make outfits ready for when you leave.

Chill out
One of the last low-key guesthouses in the area, Fajara, Leybato (tel. +220 497 186) is a beach bar and restaurant right on the beach that boasts affordable food. With hammocks, massage and beauty therapists on hand, this local spot is wonderfully relaxing.

Get active
The waters off the coast of the Gambia are great for short or longer fishing trips. Hooked on Gambia (tel. +220 777 4728 info@hookedongambia.co.uk) will tailor an excursion to your needs.

Must do
Traditional wrestling is Gambia’s national sport and a fascinating way to spend a Sunday. Serekunda has some informal wrestling arenas, but ask around to find out when the matches take place. Taxi drivers are usually the best source of information for this.

Away from the crowds
The forested coast south of Serrekunda (the main tourist area) is rich with birdlife and wild monkeys. For a good day trip, to find beaches where you are likely to get away from it all, hire a car and driver and take a picnic to Kartong or Gunjur Beach.

Local tip
If you find a taxi driver who speaks English well and knows his way around, take his number! For a little extra, he will be more than happy to come and get you from your hotel and take you where you need to go. You may also be able to negotiate day rates for longer trips.

Rose Skelton is a freelance journalist based in West Africa

Getting there
For more information about organising a holiday to Tunisia, Agadir or The Gambia, contact Airtours, tel. +44 (0)870 900 8639 quoting ‘Recline’ or visit airtours.co.uk or MyTravel at www.mytravel.com

My Travel Magazine
Issue November2007 - January 2008

 


© 2008 INK.  All Rights Reserved.  Top Email Page  Contact